Blimey, a month has already gone and I'm well into my course! The training has been pretty intense and the early morning starts at times have been a challenge in themselves... being in the water at 7am the following morning after 'Thursday Party Night' is a test of everyones commitment in itself! Even so, slowly but surely I feel like I have been improving and benifiting from the coaching I get from Rhys and Linton.
I also, on Rhys' advice, got my Australian Surfboard! A 6ft 9 Shortboard that I have already fallen in love with, despite its best efforts to occasionly throw me off when im bombing out of a section! Rhys came round to a few of us after the 2nd week of training and told us he thought we would benifit from having our own boards, rather than using the learner ones they provide, and had already been through a catalog to pick out Boards for each one of us that he thought would best suit our ability. Credit to him as I feel as though I have progressed alot with the shorter board as it is far more reponsive, though at the same time alot less forgiving. Its certainly pushing me to try and match its potential, something I think im probably still a good few years from doing!
Ive also had two sessions out in the water where I think I have caught probably the biggest and best waves of my life! The first I went with Rhys after out lesson had finished to the next bay along from Spot X. The waves that day were a good 4-5ft and to be honest it was pretty intimidating... but I really want to push myself and surf bigger waves, so I paddled out and sat in amongst the locals with Rhys. A few big sets came tearing through and looking back over the peak of the waves as they went under gave you a view of the steep drop you would have to take to get onto the face of the wave. Eventually the time came and Rhys called me into a wave (a Right, so I would be going along the wave to the right)... I started paddling, felt the board catch the wave and I poped up onto probably the biggest wave I had ever caught. The Board just rocketed down the face and I had this amazing view of the wave forming up in front of me as I rode along it. I literally couldnt stop smilling as I paddled back out to the line up... Its possibly the most addictive feeling in the world. I then managed to get another one (a left this time) before cutting my losses and heading back to camp to get lunch. This was possibly the best surf I had ever had... untill the following day.
Like I said the feeling of catching a wave is addictive, especially the feeling of being on a big wave where you have time to think, turn and just enjoy the view of tearing along a clean wave. So the following morning I headed back to the same bay over the headland on my own to try and get another wave like the day before. It was big again, and I felt nervous paddling out into the lineup full of locals on my own in 5ft waves... but that desire to get better and to get that feeling on the wave again over took me and out I paddled. I waited my turn and let the local guys take their waves and managed to get a couple of my own... even getting complimented by one of the older guys sat out back. I got chatting to him and he was interested about England and the surf over there... and then it happened again like the day before; A big set came through and the local chap called me in, 'Its yours mate, paddle!!" So I went and found myself paddling with the steepest part of the wave right behind me. I honestly thought I was about to get smashed, and as the board came down the face I thought I was about to take the beating of a life time. I grabbed the rail of my board and leaned back to try and get the board to go left and amazingly it did! No epic wipe out, and as a result of my late take off I was now speeding under the part of the wave that was curling over to break... my first mini barrel! I paddled back out with another Cheshire cat grin to be greated by the local; 'Mate you just got barrelled... proper sloted that one' 'I thought I was going to die!'
We also had another little run in with our friend Mr G. White on one of the days out in the water at the main beach at Spot X. Ash, my dutch room mate, was sat a little further out from the rest of us when he saw a fin approaching him! 'RHYS THAT BETTER BE A FUCKING DOLPHIN!!' It wasnt. Cue a mass paddle in as all of the the lessons got called in and people started freaking out... Im going to be honest, I couldnt stop laughing. There was just something bizzarely funny about it, and after 10 minutes on the beach the temptation of the good waves proved too much and 6 of the orignal 40 paddle back out, myself included! I have to admit I did feel abit dodgey and a couple of the guys saw the fin again abit further out.... I dont think we have ever all sat that close when we have been out back, normally you fight to be on the edge of the pack to get the waves, but this time it was a fight to be the one sat in the middle! Even so, the gamble paid off and Mr Shark buggered off and left us to some lovely waves in a now almost empty beach, See not all Sharks are bad!
I know this blog has been pretty much all surfing and I havent really posted much in the last month, so I promise to get another one up in the next 3 days about some of the other stuff that I have got up to around camp and in Oz including: Byron bay and its Strip contests, The Quicksilver Pro Tour event, A Bear Grylls inspired trip up the creak in a Kayak and more! Charlie x
Saturday 17 March 2012
Saturday 18 February 2012
Dude, your probably the best Swedish Surfer in the world right now!!
We arrived at Spot X last thursday and it was quite the contrast to the almost Jungle like surrounding of the Creasant Head Camp. The place is vast and we found ourselves being lead to a large building with a big pourch in the very centre of the camp, which it transpired was the new 'Academy block'. Its been great having all of the people doing the various courses staying in one place, hanging out on the pourch to listen to music, play cards... or getting a bollocking for creating a 'Shag Pad' (with its own do's and dont's welcome sign) in the spair room! Theres a real family spirit and everyone is looking out for each other the whole time, even the nick names are catching on around camp; E-man (the best Swedish surfer in the world... probably, definetly the best in the camp at Limbo), Sarg (the former German airforce officer who has an unhealthy obsession of getting out the bug spray), Ceaser (a 6 ft 5 German whos name is julias), Frenchie (well he IS french) and Califronia (sure you can work that one out)
So its Friday morning, 3 days till my course starts, a big party night planned the following day with lots of beautifull women shipped in.... the only logical thing to do was to have someone crash into me and mash up my face with their Surfboard fin. I think I freaked out some of the other surf schools on the beach as I jogged past with a cheery wave and blood pouring down my face! Trip to the doctors and that was surfing done for the weekend (he didnt want me back out till the following friday... yeah right!!). Having the worlds largest black eye did have one advantage though, and pretty much everyone round the camp now know who I am, plus I think I got brownie points for having a 'proper' surf injury... and then defying the doctor to go out again 2 days later for the start of my course.
Monday arrived and it was time to start the course with our two academy instructors Rhys and Linton... both highly accomplished surfers, who have several companies who give them free stuff in return for putting their stickers on their boards, for when their photos make a magazine from time to time. The first session we just had to catch a couple of waves and show them what we could do, I was fairly satisfied with mine managing to get 2 on my back hand (going left rather than right) and a normal right wave. We then got a lot of feed back and during the week I started to work on weight distribution on the board and how I have to stop poping up and start letting the board almost fall away below me on the steeper waves, and then swing my legs up to my chest to get onto the board.
We have also started our theory and fitness sessions on alternate days. The theory covers everything to do with surfing; the very first just talking all about the different types of boards there are in surfing, how they are made and what situation we would use them in. Fitness has also been pretty hard, especially in the warm weather, with all of our scores and times being recorded for progress checks. However they have mixed the sessions up and we have done everything from Yoga to 'Surf Rafting'... taking a huge inflatable boat out into the surf and then as a team trying to paddle to catch waves with it. Oars go flying, the boat flips. Chaos ensuses. Lots of very happy faces on the beach. BRILLIANT STUFF!
The first week has been great in all honesty, and I already feel a better surfer and just fitter in general (the food here is very salad based which helps!). I was also taken aback by how seriously Mojo seem to be taking the Academy; it is only very young and they want to turn it into the biggest and best on the East Coast of Australia. Certainly exciting to be part of that!
I'll post back soon about week two, my tough choice about maybe getting a custom board made and all of the gossip from the Brazilian Carnival that went on over the weekend... them Brazilians sure know how to party! Charlie x
So its Friday morning, 3 days till my course starts, a big party night planned the following day with lots of beautifull women shipped in.... the only logical thing to do was to have someone crash into me and mash up my face with their Surfboard fin. I think I freaked out some of the other surf schools on the beach as I jogged past with a cheery wave and blood pouring down my face! Trip to the doctors and that was surfing done for the weekend (he didnt want me back out till the following friday... yeah right!!). Having the worlds largest black eye did have one advantage though, and pretty much everyone round the camp now know who I am, plus I think I got brownie points for having a 'proper' surf injury... and then defying the doctor to go out again 2 days later for the start of my course.
Monday arrived and it was time to start the course with our two academy instructors Rhys and Linton... both highly accomplished surfers, who have several companies who give them free stuff in return for putting their stickers on their boards, for when their photos make a magazine from time to time. The first session we just had to catch a couple of waves and show them what we could do, I was fairly satisfied with mine managing to get 2 on my back hand (going left rather than right) and a normal right wave. We then got a lot of feed back and during the week I started to work on weight distribution on the board and how I have to stop poping up and start letting the board almost fall away below me on the steeper waves, and then swing my legs up to my chest to get onto the board.
We have also started our theory and fitness sessions on alternate days. The theory covers everything to do with surfing; the very first just talking all about the different types of boards there are in surfing, how they are made and what situation we would use them in. Fitness has also been pretty hard, especially in the warm weather, with all of our scores and times being recorded for progress checks. However they have mixed the sessions up and we have done everything from Yoga to 'Surf Rafting'... taking a huge inflatable boat out into the surf and then as a team trying to paddle to catch waves with it. Oars go flying, the boat flips. Chaos ensuses. Lots of very happy faces on the beach. BRILLIANT STUFF!
The first week has been great in all honesty, and I already feel a better surfer and just fitter in general (the food here is very salad based which helps!). I was also taken aback by how seriously Mojo seem to be taking the Academy; it is only very young and they want to turn it into the biggest and best on the East Coast of Australia. Certainly exciting to be part of that!
I'll post back soon about week two, my tough choice about maybe getting a custom board made and all of the gossip from the Brazilian Carnival that went on over the weekend... them Brazilians sure know how to party! Charlie x
Saturday 11 February 2012
'Is really big Dolphin code word for something else?'... 'Maybe mate'
So I've arrived!
And my god Australia is amazing! I was picked up by my lovely host for my firsty Weekend Lucinda after my epic 21 hour journey (and Emirate bizzare inforced night time... breakfast then darkness, what!?) I got to got Bondi Beach for breakfast and had to pinch myself that I was there, though the slight drizzle did give it a slightly homely feel! I literally fell in love with Sydney, its such a laid back place for a city so large! Massive thanks to Lucinda and the Owers for being amazing host and also for a once in a life time trip to the Opera theater to see a show, something I will never forget!
Monday then arrived and it felt like the first day of school again.. meeting new people and about to start on another adventure; all a bit terrifying! But to be honest it wasnt bad at all, I quickly got chatting to Dan a lad from Reading before we got on the bus, and he's now sort of become my best mate up here. The bus headed off up the Pacific Highway and we were met by some amazing scenery.. you think Australia and blazing desert springs to mind. Wrong, more like a rain forrest with hills and large rivers tearing through the landscape!
Onto Surfing and we arrived at our first stop; Cresant Head surf camp, a remote lodge next to an empty beach and point break. As the bus pulled in we were greated by 10 ripped, tanned surf instructors... all hope of hooking up went out the window! The Surf was great and though I felt abit reluctant to have to go back to basics and start from scratch with my surfing I think it paid off. By the second morning I was catching big 4 foot waves and riding along the face, even attempting a cheeky turn here and there. Bliss! But this was not before the encounter with the 'Really big Dolphin'. It went like this:
Antman the instructor: 'Hey look guys theres a couple of Dolphins out back' *pause* cue worried look and discussion with other instructors. 'Ok we arnt going to go out far today, there is a really BIG dolphin out back and we dont want to disturb it'
Me: 'Is Big Dolphin code word for something else?' Antman: 'Maybe...'
Maybe!! Bloody maybe!? it was a flipping 10ft Bull shark they later revealed.. thankfully though all limbs remained attatched and I made it to an afternoon surf at the local Point break, once again with me getting some of the best waves of my life!
Cresant Head was a cool little way to get us all up to speed with Surfing and really bonded the group together, the food was great and the evening parties by the fire were epic (thanks for the input Jodie!) On wednesday we packed up and got ready to head to Spot X our home for the next 3 months and the start of the course! I'll talk about that on my next blog in a couple of days! The Surfing has so far been great and Australia has certainly lived up to its name... no wetsuit? FUCKING YES!
Cheers Charlie x Yeeeeeew
And my god Australia is amazing! I was picked up by my lovely host for my firsty Weekend Lucinda after my epic 21 hour journey (and Emirate bizzare inforced night time... breakfast then darkness, what!?) I got to got Bondi Beach for breakfast and had to pinch myself that I was there, though the slight drizzle did give it a slightly homely feel! I literally fell in love with Sydney, its such a laid back place for a city so large! Massive thanks to Lucinda and the Owers for being amazing host and also for a once in a life time trip to the Opera theater to see a show, something I will never forget!
Monday then arrived and it felt like the first day of school again.. meeting new people and about to start on another adventure; all a bit terrifying! But to be honest it wasnt bad at all, I quickly got chatting to Dan a lad from Reading before we got on the bus, and he's now sort of become my best mate up here. The bus headed off up the Pacific Highway and we were met by some amazing scenery.. you think Australia and blazing desert springs to mind. Wrong, more like a rain forrest with hills and large rivers tearing through the landscape!
Onto Surfing and we arrived at our first stop; Cresant Head surf camp, a remote lodge next to an empty beach and point break. As the bus pulled in we were greated by 10 ripped, tanned surf instructors... all hope of hooking up went out the window! The Surf was great and though I felt abit reluctant to have to go back to basics and start from scratch with my surfing I think it paid off. By the second morning I was catching big 4 foot waves and riding along the face, even attempting a cheeky turn here and there. Bliss! But this was not before the encounter with the 'Really big Dolphin'. It went like this:
Antman the instructor: 'Hey look guys theres a couple of Dolphins out back' *pause* cue worried look and discussion with other instructors. 'Ok we arnt going to go out far today, there is a really BIG dolphin out back and we dont want to disturb it'
Me: 'Is Big Dolphin code word for something else?' Antman: 'Maybe...'
Maybe!! Bloody maybe!? it was a flipping 10ft Bull shark they later revealed.. thankfully though all limbs remained attatched and I made it to an afternoon surf at the local Point break, once again with me getting some of the best waves of my life!
Cresant Head was a cool little way to get us all up to speed with Surfing and really bonded the group together, the food was great and the evening parties by the fire were epic (thanks for the input Jodie!) On wednesday we packed up and got ready to head to Spot X our home for the next 3 months and the start of the course! I'll talk about that on my next blog in a couple of days! The Surfing has so far been great and Australia has certainly lived up to its name... no wetsuit? FUCKING YES!
Cheers Charlie x Yeeeeeew
Monday 30 January 2012
Packing for a year
Hey, so I'm about to head to Australia to start my Surf instructors course and thought I would set up a Blog to let you know how my training was going and how many Sharks I've had to fight off with my Board! I’ve got 3 months of Training at 'Spot X Surf camp' on the East Coast of Australia, about 2 hours south of Byron Bay. The idea of Surfing in the Pacific Ocean seems pretty unreal, especially after a summer of surfing the slightly less exotic shore break at East Runton on the Norfolk coast. Tropical paradise it is not.
The first 2 months of the course are surfing and training every day out in the ocean getting my ability and fitness up to scratch. Then in the final month I start the qualification part of the training, learning advanced resuscitation, open water rescue, advanced first aid, and also taking my ‘run swim run requirement’.... I’m assuming that I’m going to have to run for that. Then swim. Then run a little bit more! I will also get to start taking my first groups out to teach them to surf as I get to do 40 hours of practical experience at the Surf School. Hopefully by the end of the 3 months I will be fully qualified and licensed with the Australian Level 1 Surf instructor’s award. After that I’ve got the working Visa for a year so hopefully I’ll be able to get a job and a place to live out there and keep living out in the land of surf!
So now I’m packing everything for a year into one bag. It is quite a large bag I might add... Unfortunately my own Surfboard is going have to sit this adventure out, the nightmare of getting it down there and around Sydney means that I will buy its Australian cousin once have sorted out a more permanent place to stay! Amazingly I have managed to fit almost everything in my bag, though I guess a selection of Board shorts and Rash vests were never going to take up a massive amount of room. The fact that you don’t need a wetsuit is something that I probably won’t accept till I get there... the sea is always cold and it’s always raining when you get to the beach right!? The hail storm in Newquay in June has sort of given me a complex...
Well that’s about it for my Blog intro, I’m going to try and update this once a week with how it’s going, and also any video or photos I take. The next one should be after my weekend in Sydney and my first week at Spot X, hey maybe I might even spot Russell Crowe!
Charlie
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