Blimey, a month has already gone and I'm well into my course! The training has been pretty intense and the early morning starts at times have been a challenge in themselves... being in the water at 7am the following morning after 'Thursday Party Night' is a test of everyones commitment in itself! Even so, slowly but surely I feel like I have been improving and benifiting from the coaching I get from Rhys and Linton.
I also, on Rhys' advice, got my Australian Surfboard! A 6ft 9 Shortboard that I have already fallen in love with, despite its best efforts to occasionly throw me off when im bombing out of a section! Rhys came round to a few of us after the 2nd week of training and told us he thought we would benifit from having our own boards, rather than using the learner ones they provide, and had already been through a catalog to pick out Boards for each one of us that he thought would best suit our ability. Credit to him as I feel as though I have progressed alot with the shorter board as it is far more reponsive, though at the same time alot less forgiving. Its certainly pushing me to try and match its potential, something I think im probably still a good few years from doing!
Ive also had two sessions out in the water where I think I have caught probably the biggest and best waves of my life! The first I went with Rhys after out lesson had finished to the next bay along from Spot X. The waves that day were a good 4-5ft and to be honest it was pretty intimidating... but I really want to push myself and surf bigger waves, so I paddled out and sat in amongst the locals with Rhys. A few big sets came tearing through and looking back over the peak of the waves as they went under gave you a view of the steep drop you would have to take to get onto the face of the wave. Eventually the time came and Rhys called me into a wave (a Right, so I would be going along the wave to the right)... I started paddling, felt the board catch the wave and I poped up onto probably the biggest wave I had ever caught. The Board just rocketed down the face and I had this amazing view of the wave forming up in front of me as I rode along it. I literally couldnt stop smilling as I paddled back out to the line up... Its possibly the most addictive feeling in the world. I then managed to get another one (a left this time) before cutting my losses and heading back to camp to get lunch. This was possibly the best surf I had ever had... untill the following day.
Like I said the feeling of catching a wave is addictive, especially the feeling of being on a big wave where you have time to think, turn and just enjoy the view of tearing along a clean wave. So the following morning I headed back to the same bay over the headland on my own to try and get another wave like the day before. It was big again, and I felt nervous paddling out into the lineup full of locals on my own in 5ft waves... but that desire to get better and to get that feeling on the wave again over took me and out I paddled. I waited my turn and let the local guys take their waves and managed to get a couple of my own... even getting complimented by one of the older guys sat out back. I got chatting to him and he was interested about England and the surf over there... and then it happened again like the day before; A big set came through and the local chap called me in, 'Its yours mate, paddle!!" So I went and found myself paddling with the steepest part of the wave right behind me. I honestly thought I was about to get smashed, and as the board came down the face I thought I was about to take the beating of a life time. I grabbed the rail of my board and leaned back to try and get the board to go left and amazingly it did! No epic wipe out, and as a result of my late take off I was now speeding under the part of the wave that was curling over to break... my first mini barrel! I paddled back out with another Cheshire cat grin to be greated by the local; 'Mate you just got barrelled... proper sloted that one' 'I thought I was going to die!'
We also had another little run in with our friend Mr G. White on one of the days out in the water at the main beach at Spot X. Ash, my dutch room mate, was sat a little further out from the rest of us when he saw a fin approaching him! 'RHYS THAT BETTER BE A FUCKING DOLPHIN!!' It wasnt. Cue a mass paddle in as all of the the lessons got called in and people started freaking out... Im going to be honest, I couldnt stop laughing. There was just something bizzarely funny about it, and after 10 minutes on the beach the temptation of the good waves proved too much and 6 of the orignal 40 paddle back out, myself included! I have to admit I did feel abit dodgey and a couple of the guys saw the fin again abit further out.... I dont think we have ever all sat that close when we have been out back, normally you fight to be on the edge of the pack to get the waves, but this time it was a fight to be the one sat in the middle! Even so, the gamble paid off and Mr Shark buggered off and left us to some lovely waves in a now almost empty beach, See not all Sharks are bad!
I know this blog has been pretty much all surfing and I havent really posted much in the last month, so I promise to get another one up in the next 3 days about some of the other stuff that I have got up to around camp and in Oz including: Byron bay and its Strip contests, The Quicksilver Pro Tour event, A Bear Grylls inspired trip up the creak in a Kayak and more! Charlie x
